Sole Sistas: West Coast Trail Adventure

 

A Photo Diary of our Adventure Hiking the West Coast Trail of the Pacific Rim National Park on Vancouver Island

July 4-12, 2016

“The West Coast Trail (WCT) is one of the most gruelling treks in North America. [It is rated one of the top 10 hikes in the world]. It is isolated, strenuous, physically challenging, and potentially hazardous. It is also extremely rewarding due to the spectacular scenery and unique setting.

Hiking the WCT demands stamina and expertise in hiking and backcountry camping skills. Only competent backpackers should attempt the entire route. You are required to cross deep gullies on fallen trees, negotiate very steep slopes and follow an irregular, slippery trail, [and wade through mud up to your knees, plus bogs.] This is a wilderness area and it may be many hours before help can be obtained should an accident occur.” — http://www.westcosttrailbc.com

Okay, most of us trained for a year. None of us had ever carried a pack that heavy (38 – 52 lbs, respectively). We were all amateurs. What the hell… you only live once. The Sole Sistas hit the trail with Sea to Sky Expeditions.

The Stats:

8 hikers, average age 52; 76 km; 2 guides; 70 slippery ladders; 4 hand-pulled cable cars; 100 bridges; 1,000,000 lbs of mud; 12 teaspoons of tears; 1 wipe-out; 1 bout of flu; one possible evacuation; endless laughter

The Sole Sistas:

 

 

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Our ‘last supper’ for 8 days, at the Cactus Club in Vancouver.
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Our 2nd ‘last supper’ at the Coastal Kitchen Cafe, Port Renfrew, after we set up camp. Great wild salmon and 100 Mysteries Tea. If you want to hydrate before the trip, drink the white wine.

 

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Parks Canada Office at the Gordon River Trailhead

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We weigh our bags in at Butch’s ferry. The winner is Colleen with 48 lbs. Mine weighs 46 lbs. It doesn’t sound like a lot but try carrying it on day 4, climbing 300 ft of a continuous, slimy ladder on a cliff wall, in the rain! Your quads are screaming.
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On Butch’s boat, on our way to the trailhead
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Our first ladder at the Gordon River Trailhead

WCT Day 2

Day 2: Thrasher Cover to Camper Bay, 8 km, 10 hrs, Sunny… just like our mood

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Owen Point’s phosphorescent magnificence

Janis rocks out with giant kelp

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Breathtaking vistas

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Lunch time = nap time
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Day 3 salute to the WCT. We think we are going to have to evacuate one of our hikers but she rallies, thankfully.
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Day 3: Camper Bay to Walburn Creek, 9 km, 10 hrs, Rain.  Here we are at the top of the Sandstone River. We take an off-book, off-trail route to walk the tidal shelf and then up the river. Very cool.

Very unhappy river-soaked camper at 6 am

Night 3: I wake at 3:23 am to find Juli and I are floating, on our thermarests, in one foot of water in our tent! Walburn Creek has risen overnight, due to the constant heavy rain and the surging ocean tides. All our gear is floating in the river. We scramble to strike our tent and move to higher ground. My underwear/bra bag has disappeared. Juli falls out of the fly and into the water, soaking herself. All our gear is drenched. We set up our tent and struggle to get a few hours sleep. Plus, the campsite is full of mice and our bowls and cups are full of poop. Good times!

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Day 4, after a long, rainy night of floating tent and flooded tarps

Day 4: Walburn Creek to Chez Monique, 7 km, 7 hrs, Scattered Showers and Fog. A morning pic as we huddle under the tarp and gobble breakfast. 

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Beth explains how we’re going to wade in the raging Walburn Creek, as a group of tightly locked 10 hikers holding to each other, and slowly make our way across. We try, and fail. Back to the muddy trail we go with soaking boots. It is the right choice as the river is hazardously rough.

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My favourite pic of the whole trip: the team crossing a tidal surge. It really captures of the ruggedness and raw beauty of the trail. 

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Pebbles, who belongs to Carl’s family at Nitinat Narrows, travels with us for a day.
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Happiness is a warm mug of coffee and friends

Day 5: We dine and sleep at Chez Monique’s. You would think we had hit the Four Seasons. International students called Wolfies cook us a gourmet dinner and breakfast under the watchful eye of organic farmer and host Monique and her son, Dan. Her husband, Peter, drives his boat 2-5 hours each way to Port Renfrew to get groceries daily. A new food supply arrives and Beth and Tessa divide it up. Juli and I sleep in the greenhouse with them to try to dry our clothes. It is so smokey, though, that I fear we’ll die in our sleep from C02 poisoning. Ah well, it was a good try and nice to have warm food in our bellies.

Day 5: Monique’s to Nitinat Narrows, 14 km, 9 hrs, Cloudy with Rain showers

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The Nitinat: one of the biggest salt water tidal rivers in the world. The Narrows are 3 km long and the dense old growth forest surrounding it is hemlock and Douglas fir. To cross this river, which falls midway during the WCT, you must take a water taxi from Carls’ Crab Shack. Eat there first but beware the Princess toilet at the back! Ew.

 

WCT Day 6
Getting a ride across and up the Nitinat Narrows in Leon’s boat. Survival coats and life jackets — the water is damn cold. Two grey whales are frolicking in the surf and blocking our exit!

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With each surge, Leon would ram the boat up to the high, mussel-covered reef, and we’d have to jump out, one by one, to shore. They threw up the packs and poles afterwards.

Louise, aspiring guide

Louise has applied to be a Sea to Sky Expeditions guide 12 times and been denied. Why?

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We had to leave this stranded seal pup, hoping his mother would rescue him.

 

Banana Slug

Banana slugs on the path

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Beach walk and the famous hole in the wall

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With my awesome tent mate and cousin, Juli

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Typical mud up to your knees

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Pyramid Time at Tsusiat Falls: Pat, Janis and me

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Day 6: Beth shows us pictures of Pacheedaht longhouses at Tsuquadra Point
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Shipwreck anchor, one of many

WCT Day 7

Day 7: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek, 13 km, An Eternity, Rain, Rain, Rain

WCT Day 8

Day 8: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay, 12 km, 5 hrs, Cloudy with Rain

img_1544img_1540img_1538Colleen and Connie -- near the end of the trail

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2 flippin’ km to go. If you’re hiking south to north, the last 25 km are long, mud-filled and not as interesting.

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We did it!

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Gear wash at the hotel: 8 days of mud and slime

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Published by Jody Scotchmer Dembroski

Musical theatre geek, writer, investment student, adventure seeker and planner, tennis player, islander, family gal #tredsup

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